Friday 15th July
A cold, windy, rainy day. The view has gone.
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| Bye bye Foulay Island- Hamish in the distance? |
Breakfast and showers and we are on the road by 10am heading to Jo and Simon's.
Heading South always feels a bit miserable even if we are not going straight home.
The first services we try to stop at are full and then the M6 crawls to a stop. Thankfully we see it happen and dive off then have to crawl through Warrington, how frustrating.
Eventually we get close to Jo and Simon's and pulled up for lunch and 40 winks for Alastair.
We arrived at Jo and Simons and had a lovely night catching up and sampling a few local ales.
Thursday 14th July
We wake to beautiful blue sky and crystal clear visibility on the peaks, bet they get sunburn today though.
We have a gentle start to the day with veggie sausage and egg baps for the boys as a treat, no shortage of veggie meals here! Andrew heads off and we hang the tent in a tree to make sure it's dry.
We are packed up, water tanks full and heading off by 11am when we get the news that makes our day, Gove's been sacked.
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| Lake District Traffic Jam |
As we head up the valley listening to T.MS. a farmer and his collie are collecting sheep that have wandered onto the road, we stop to let them pass but the farmer calls us on.
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| Coast Road to Barrow in Furness |
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| View to Piel Island |
We arrive at lunchtime at the place where you catch the little ferry to the island, there was a group gathered at the jetty waiting and just across the water the remains of the castle could clearly be seen.
We went back to H and read about the island but just couldn't muster the enthusiasm for it so instead we drove just back up the road to the Howff that overlooked Foulay Island, much more us.
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| Howff off the Causeway |
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| Our own yellowy orange submarine |
The view was so clear we could see Heysham power station and Blackpool tower.
We headed up the track to the top of the island, now joined to the mainland by a causeway. Along the way information boards explained that sandwich and little terns nested on the island. Samphire grew along the route, Alastair picked some and ate it raw.
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| Track across to Foulay Island |
Due to yesterdays exertions Lisa's thighs went into spasm every other step so it took a long time to reach the end of the island. There were hundreds of eider (dunter), flocks of curlew, did we see one tern? Well, yes we saw one, only one.
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| It is quite a long way |
As we walked back towards H. we felt a very mean sense of jubilation to see the peak of Scafell Pike covered in cloud.
Back in H. we ate our last freezer meal and drank a bottle of cellar wine we had saved specially surrounded by beach, sea and huge sky's an amazing vista.
Wednesday 13th July
Nervous about the walk we both have the worst night sleep we have had in ages. Awake from 4.45am we eventually drop off for half an hour around 7am..
As predicted we wake to a cloudy day and as we get ready there is a brief shower.
As predicted we wake to a cloudy day and as we get ready there is a brief shower.
Alastair fills our platypus then puts something on top of Lisa's so a litre and half of Ribena is promptly deposited, in H's garage. While we were at home we got H's heating mended however the experience of constant leaks meant that not too much damage was done as most things are now packed off the floor, Lisa climbed in the garage and mopped up.
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| Leaving Wastwater behind |
Despite the equipment malfunction we set off at 9am keen to avoid the crowds.
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| Monument to the Dead |
The first part of the walk takes us past the little church and graveyard to the first climbers who lost their lives on Scafell Pike in 1803. Lovely!
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| Looking up towards the Sty Head col, with Great Gable on our left. (see the wiggly path) |
Not to be disuaded we were soon on the slope climbing along the face of ?. The peaks are still clear of clouds.
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| A sheep |
We are soon sweating and huffing and puffing and an hour and half after setting off Andrew looked up to the Scafell Massif and observes we aren't even a quarter of the way up! We put our heads down and trudge on.
Our early start has paid off as we are not walking in a queue although 3 walkers soon catch up with us although as our path reaches a crossroads they are heading in a different direction.
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| Walking up from Wasdale Head -village in the background |
Alastair needs to check the map to make sure we are on the Corridor path, our chosen route. He put his rucsac down on a conviently placed box, the front of the box stated 'stretcher', they fill you with confidence round here.
Suddenly a shower manifests and we all take our rucsacs off to grab waterproofs. As Alastair checks his map Lisa realises the pool of water accumulating on top of the stretcher box is not a consequence of the shower but is pouring out of the platypus in his sac. As she grabs the rucsac Andrew realises the pool of water is cascading down off the box onto his rucsac which Lisa also grabs, chaos.
Having confirmed which path we need to take we set off, Alastair with a much lighter sac, Andrew with a much damper one. As we look up the peaks have disappeared into the cloud, we have had our 30% of visibility.
The path traverses ? and we get to do our first bit of scrambling which gets Lisa very excited.
The path seems to disappear and possibly continues to scramble up or traverses to the right. Instead of checking the map we take the traverse, big mistake.
Knowing this is a path walked by thousands we are clearly not on it. A map check confirms we should have gone up, so we do. We climb a steep grassy bank vertically for ? feet as our thigh muscles feel the burn. With our exertions we soon find the path which has steps.
Around 11:30 we can see the route taking us up towards the mountain' so we munch on one of Alastairs flapjack before we crack on.
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| Not sure we can see the route! |
An interesting bit of scrambling and we are onto rocky ground. The showers continue and we begin to reach the cloud base.
As our view disappears into the cloud we are into 'ere be dragons' landscape.
We have seen about 5 people heading down the mountain but still no one has caught us up bit then out of the mist people appear as we meet the other path.
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| Poor visibility. (sorry VERY poor). |
By now visibility is very poor, Alastair checks the map and the corridor route takes us off the path we have now joined up through a boulder field. Quick team meeting and we decide to play it safe, we continue on the path guided by cairns, each of which we can only see one at a time as we stick closely together and feel our way through the fog.
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| This is quite crowded- just can't see the crowds! |
At 1pm we finally reach the summit. Lisa produces a surprise, her wee hip flask and proposes a toast to Andrews' Dad who we lost very recently.
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| Summit! Views? |
As the wind, rain and cold increase we huddle behind a stone wall for lunch. As other walkers reach the summit there are frequent jokes about the view and about being on Snowdon.
For a few seconds there is a sense that there is some sun somewhere so we wait for 10 minutes but it becomes darker and colder again and we decide to descend.
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| Here be Dragons! |
Alastair wanted to take us back down an different track but due to the visibility we can't find where it branches off so we adopt plan B. We find ourselves on what the National Trust are clearly trying to make the main tourist track up the mountain. lts a wide path with a reasonable gradient but pretty boring apart from a stream crossing towards the end.
As we come out of the cloud we are suddenly rewarded with a view which disappears again as we watch. Lisa takes off her waterproof trousers and as a shower soaks us she has to put them back on it doesn't rain again.
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| Nearly a view- see the sun in the valley below. |
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| On our way down- finally some visibility. |
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| See the Woodpecker? |
Four National Trust volunteers are laying a section of the path with rocks that have been helicoptered in.
Just before leaving the path which takes us into the campsite we watch a greater spotted woodpecker.
After showers we head for the Inn for a celebratory pint and a post walk strategy meeting.
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| Climbing down towards Wastwater. |
The vegetarian options were limited and mostly sold out so Alastair and Lisa ended up with chip buttys while Andrew guilty tucked into a meat pie.
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| Pints to Celebrate. |
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| Nightcap- not whisky honestly! |
Back to H for a nightcap but we were shattered so didn't even manage a whisky.
As Andrew left H to go to his tent Alastair started writhing around silently screaming. He had immense pain in his groin, cramp we think. We keep a bottle of ice in the freezer for Al's plantar fascitis ? Lisa helped him onto our bed and he held that between his legs, Lisa rummaged in the drugs box and administered ibuprofen, helped him get undressed and climbed into bed. Alastair managed to find a way of lying that didn't make him scream in pain and we both fell asleep and amazingly got a good nights kip.
Tuesday 12th July
An exciting day, so exciting Alastair was awake from 5:30am.
Once Lisa rouses about 7:30 we open the blinds and for the first time we can see mountains and the Scafell range.
We head into Ravenglass again and all morning jobs done we can finally head up to Wasdale.
We arrive in the carpark at Wasdale Head at 10:30m, as it costs £4 for 2 hours we walk across the bridge to the campsite to see if we can put H there as we are booked for 2 nights.
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| Our Howff. |
Andrew is joining us for this walk and we have bought our festival tent for him to sleep in. lt is so exciting to be able to pitch a tent, Lisa in particular misses sleeping under canvas.
Tent up we need to check that the Wasdale Head lnn serves real ale to save us having to drive back down the valley.
So we go on a reccy, we walk out of the campsite, over the bridge and along the road to Wasdale Inn for a pint.
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| 2 Pints |
Lisa calls Andrew from a pay phone, she had to follow the instructions as it's been so long since she used one, to let him know neither of us have any signal up here.
After a quick pint which passes the real ale test we get back to H. for lunch and then jobs. A week into our travels we can treat ourselves to clean bedding. towels etc.
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| Up Wasdale towards Pillar and Great Gable |
By 4 pm all jobs done and rucsacs partially packed for tomorrow we can chill and wait for Andrew.
Andrew arrives at 5pm and after a restorative cuppa we walk back up the hill to the Wasdale Head Inn.
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| Best view of Scafell Pike that we get. |
Sitting outside next to the beck with cheeky sparrows surrounding us we plan our strategy for tomorrow.
Andrew uses the pay phone to let Jacky know he's here, he also has to read the instructions and resorts to calling in a friend for assistance.
Part 2 of the planning meeting is held back at H. with chilli for tea.
Monday 11th July
We are still alone in the car park and it's still raining.
We drive into Ravenglass to get breakfast (veggie saus baps, comfort food required) and use the facilities.
It may be July but it's cold and miserable. We are slow to get moving and tempted to have a duvet day.
House meeting is called and we plan to get supplies in to see us through to Thursday.
The shops here are few and far between and we find ourselves in Egremont. You would imagine they would want to encourage people to stay as long as possible but we have to pay for parking and an hour is plenty.
Still unrelentingly grey we drive to Seascale for lunch, at least parking is free here.
The 12 0 clock news suggests we have a new P.M. Another Brexiter has realised the mess they caused is too great and has chucked in the towel.
By 2pm finally we see glimpses of blue sky and force ourselves out of H.
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| Beautifully long beach. |
It's a beautiful, long, empty beach but it all feels very scary as its next to the sinister building that is Sellafield.
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| Just ignore Sellafield. |
Having stretched our legs for an hour we drive back up the hill to town for wifi to update our blog.
We decide to head back to Drigg for the night. What a difference a little sunshine makes we were immediately rewarded with close views of a Kestrel and a stone chat.
A short walk on the beach and back to watch the most beautiful sunset this week, well to be fair, the only sunset we have seen in a while.
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| Back towards Seascale. |
Sunday 10th July.
Since she knew she was leaving work Lisa had a 2 immediate ambitions, one was Papay the other is to walk up Scafell Pike. She has walked up Snowdon a few times by different tracks, The Ben once, but never England's highest peak. This is the week we have planned to fulfil this ambition.
Much rested we are soon heading North to beat the Sunday traffic. We just have one junction to go on the M way and we see the traffic stop, Alastair manages to get us off just in time and by 3pm we arrive in Ravenglass.
We stayed at the campsite here last Feb on our way home from watching Scotland and Wales and thought we could have stayed in the car park but they have since added big signs suggesting fines so we decide not to risk it.
About 10 minutes away we find a Howff at the car park at Drigg next to the beach.
It is cold, raining and very windy. We brave only a short walk to the water and back and retreat to the warmth and comfort of H.
The dog walkers gradually leave and we are alone in a bleak and gunmetal grey landscape.
