06/05/2016 to 12/05/2016 Week Four, Peatwell, Papay, Orkney

Friday 06 05

No plans for today, how lovely.  The rest of the UK has been baking in temperatures of over 20 degrees, our wind drops today, the sun comes out and we have the strangest experience of being out without gloves and 4 layers.

Yesterday's elections have seen a resurgence of the Tories in Scotland. Norman Smith (Radio 4) said the last Scottish Tory meeting he attended had more tweed in one room than he had ever seen in his life, now its headed by a young, gay woman who has made the party attractive and inclusive and tempered by her very left leaning opposition she appears much more middle of the road than Citizen Dave. 

We cycled to North Hill to see an even rarer sight, the peedie primrose that only grows here in the spray of sea salt and flowers in May and July. Then we see our first Puffin.  0nly one but it's a start!

Sunset from Peatwell

 We saw bumblebees for the first time today and found a blackbird nesting in the the eaves of the outhouse, she peers stoically out of her nest as we bumble in and out with our bikes. 

Saturday 07 05

Two good nights sleep was too much to ask for and Lisa was awake from 3.30am. At least we were in plenty of time to listen to BBC Scotland Outdoors Live, a favourite podcast of ours that often accompanys us on our journeys around scotland.  Today they mention the Mama Westray spoof and visit the campsite we stayed on by Loch Ness which, it turns out,was inspired by this programme.

We wander up the hill past Peatwell and along a track we hadn't ventured down before.  We found an empty croft still containing an iron bedstead, one leg propped upon bricks, coal from the last fire in the grate and curtains; very poignant.  An arctic skua flew within a few feet of us several times and we can often see her now from the sun room windows. 

Having had such a crap nights sleep Lisa was in much need of an afternoon kip and so were fast asleep when there was a knock on the door!  We are living on an island that can only be reached by plane on Saturday, Peatwell is down a farm track and we can't be mistaken for another cottage.  Perplexed Alastair puts on his nightshirt and opens the door to three suited and booted Jehovah's Witnesses who must have flown over to perform their ministry.  Well you have to give them 10/10 for effort!  They look Alastair up and down, taking in his 'wee willie Winkie' nightshirt, mutter something about him being 'busy', hand over a magazine and leave.  Poor Jehovahs.

Pub night tonight.

Sunday 08 05

Peatwell has vanished into a cloud.  We can barely see the gulls in the field and it starts raining.  This is a staying in day.  Alastair decides to tackle the stove. Lisa snuggles down in the sun room with 'The Life and Death of St. Kilda' and waits for the entertainment.  Within minutes Alastair is slumped next to her.  All of the windows are open and the familiar acrid smoke fills the house.

Cannot even see the island opposite- Westray

The fire isn't mentioned again and we donate our fire materials to David, the Birdie man.

Monday 09 05

The cloud has lifted, the sun is out and by 9am we are at the new pier with our bikes for the ferry to Westray.  Stuart brought two young people who have to go to secondary school in Westray and we were off.

The ferry Captain had the Dutch version of Penelope so Alastair had a bike envy moment when we arrived and the captain showed off his bike.  A cycle round the Bay and we headed towards Noup Head. There are cars here, two lane roads, people, noise, very wierd.

We visited Westray Castle enroute and Alastair had wobbly legs climbing the stairs to look across Westray.  Balfour who built it was chief of staff to Mary Queen of Scots and he must have been paranoid as it was covered in gun slots.  Although he did end up being executed so maybe not so paranoid.

Noup Head Lighthouse

Guillemots clinging to their rocky shelves

The road turned into a dirt track which Penelope just does not lower herself too so we abandoned the bikes.  We arrived at Noup Head lighthouse which we can see flashing every night from Peatwell and looked over the cliffs to see our first flocks of gannets.

We headed to the coastal path on the East of Noup Head and saw hundreds of gannets perched on nests of what looked like seaweed on the diff stacks, it was an incredible sight.  Guillemots were trying to find spots in between the Gannets to perch.

Gannets!

After lunch, overlooking the cliffs, we tried to find the path back which had been blocked by sheep fences. We made an excursion through barbed wire and over ploughed fields to exercise our 'right to roam' and made it back to the bikes.

Lunch

 Back in Westray Bay we went to the hotel bar, what a novelty.  Sadly they had no draught beer and no Island Hopping even in bottles but it was lovely to have a beer outside in the sunshine.

We caught the 6.15 last ferry back to Papay.

lt was low tide and as we moored we could see the bowels of the new pier. We manhandled our bikes up the pier steps and we were soon cycling home.

The quiteness struck us, only 600 people live on Westray so it is hardly Birmingham but it feels so different, Papay feels like a real island where it can be a struggle, it was so lovely to be back.... and breathe.

Tuesday 10 05

A gentle start after a busy days.  We have done more cycling on Papay in 3 weeks than at home in 3 years.

We bumped into David, the memory stick Alastair put all our music onto for him hadn't worked.

While they sat looking at Davids' laptop Julian arrived.  He brought a box out of his car that contained a razorbill drowned in a thick oil that had been washed up on the beach that morning, a sickening and distressing sight.  Julian was sending the bird for tests on the oil so they could find out whodunnit.  The only good thing is that it seems this is a rare occurrence.

Our stone seats infront of OUR croft

We headed to the abandoned croft on the front and Alastair constructed 2 stone steps for us to sit out of the wind to read and blog.  Alastair had lost several days of blog he had written and he began again.

We headed home after 3 pm for a mamoth cooking session because we are using up all of our supplies to begin the leaving preparations.

As we cooked a mist descended, Westray vanished and it became very quiet and spooky.

Wednesday 11 05

Around Orkney at 7.30am and Julian and the razor bill are headline news.  A second bird has been washed up on one of the other islands. Swallows have arrived and are flying around Peatwell.

We loaded Penelope up with our coal, kindling and fire lights, she has been a brilliant workhorse for us.   We also had Alastair’s second attempt at putting music onto a memory stick for David who hadn't been able to bring his own.  David was at home, we donated our fire materials to him and this time he could download the music... hooray.   

We headed to North Hill and finally the puffins are arriving, we counted 9.    In amongst them Alastair also spotted a diver with a white bill, as we didn't recognise it we agreed to look it up later and both agreed it mainly fitted the description of a "white billed diver' but according to the book they aren't found on these shores so we must have made a mistake.

It looked like we were in for another spectacular sunset so after tea are took our last bottle of Island Hopping and the last of our Hazellburn to the beach and enjoyed a dram as the sun fell.

Nearly Goodbye Sunset with dram

Andrew messaged us to say that on a ' rare breeds' website a white-billed diver had been seen on South Ronaldsay, we were thrilled, we absolutely could have seen one this morning.
 

Around Peatwell we are frequently serenaded by the drumming of the snipe which is an amazing sound.   There area pair that we see with increasing regularity just infront of the sun room, one spends ages having a bath.    Hopefully they will nest nearby.

We headed home to watch 'wild Scotland' but the TV, has decided we can't watch any of the main channels.  After some investigation Alastair manages to adjust it and we caught the second half.
An alarm is set to look for the Merry Dancers as its such a clear night.

Thursday 12 05

There were no Merry Dancers.  Our last full day.

We headed to the hostel to say bye and thanks to Jennifer, the islanders have all made us feel so welcome.  Lisa disgraced herself by getting tearful, this is going to be a painful process.

 We headed to David to tell him about our possible spot yesterday, he didn't seem convinced, we are worried we will be known as the people who made up a corncrake call then a white billed diver spot. 

We headed to North Hill for our last chance of seeing puffins, there were about 6 dotting around today.  We cycled back along the Bay checking out the impressive kelp store renovations and headed for our 'seats' by the croft.

That evening we managed to finish off our wine, whisky and gin.  We will leave here £120 in credit, impressive as we arrived about £130 in debt, petrol the first week took us over our limit .

Friday Ferry from Papay- no roll on roll off here, everything is craned.

29/04/2016 to 05/05/2016 Week Three, Peatwell, Papay

Friday 29 04

We waved Andrew off on his peedie (Orkney for wee) flight to Kirkwall and cycled up to Fowl Craig to spot Puffins.  Non.  So wandered home to do lists.

We arrived early for our Friday Fresh veg shop hoping to use the Youth Hostel WiFi to post blog stuff. Non!!! (with French accent).  So we frenetically stopped and wandered home.

Waving Andrew Off!

Saturday 30 04

Saturday was a domestic day, We treated ourselves to breakfast in bed then cleaned Peatwell and walked to the' new' pier to recycle.   We walked back along the coast and collected more Broch.

Peedie Bunny in our Garden

Andrew text to say he was home safe and the Walsall peregrines have 4 eggs in their nest, no idea how they are managing without Lisa tidying up pigeon wings, feet, heads for them.

Tonight is pub night so we head up just after 8 to find out it doesn't start until 9pm!!  Not that we are desperate for a beer or anything!!

Julian, barman for the evening, arrived and helpfully tried to explain the difference between common (not so) and atlantic grey seals.  A lovely evening chatting to Jan and Jim, who showed Alastair his jews harps (one wooden), while his wife Margaret played the accordion with her grandson on the guitar.

The walk home was lit by moonlight, in just 2 weeks the nights have become so much lighter .

Sunday 01 05

Through the night the wind had blown around the bedroom making all sort of noises causing wierd dreams and a fitful night.

Alastair's favourite: a Fulmar

Apart from cooking to keep the stocks up we did little today.

Lisa tries once again with the stove but everytime the door is opened the house fills with acrid smoke and Alastair huffs around opening all of the windows which defeats the object as a gale whips through the inside of Peatwell.     Lisa refuses to attempt another fire.      Alastair said he will do it next time.  Fighting talk!

Monday 02 05

Alastair’s second, and much improved, attempt at bread. Julian told us the artic terns were beginning to return and a merlin entertained us on our walk home. 

Tuesday 03 05

Fred the friendly Fulmar

After two relaxing days we experience a day of excitement and entertainment.   We started by walking the last section of coast to complete our circumnavigation of Papay: from the Knapp of Howar to North Hill.

Fred being friendly again

We gave ourselves a break from the high winds by sheltering in the RSPB hide, watching the acrobatic, arial display of arctic skuas. 

RSPB Hide with Bonxie in forground (left)

Back at Peatwell a Bonxie cruised into our common gull field to snatch eggs.    The gulls rise en masse to mob the Bonxie, who beats a somewhat flustered retreat.    Then a blue tractor with trailer arrives in our field!  Then the tractor leaves!

Someone then knocks on our front door!  It is Candy!  She is delivering a microwave!

A day full of entertainment and excitement!

Wednesday 04 05

Force 7 and rain for most of the day.  We have tried all the weather forcasts: BBC TV main, BBC TV regional, Scottish TV, BBC Radio 4, BBC Radio Scotland and Orkney Radio.   Non of them come close to describing the weather we get on this wee island, hardly larger than a container ship dropped at the very top of the UK, where the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea meet.    So we listen to the Shipping Forcast.  We are 'Fair Isle'. "Fair enough", we say.

Persistence pays; so we head for the Youth Hostel.  Jen has told as that switching the hub off and on can sometimes encourage the Internet to play.  We try that and it seems to play, so we post the blog what we wrote.

Jen says that we should try Papay in winter. She tells us that the community bought Rose Cottage from the RSPB, so we could rent it for a month or two.  We are seriously thinking we might. Just that bloomin lack of Internet!

Thursday 05 05

Whilst waiting in the airport terminal (shed) for the Big Bird (plane) to take Alastair to mainland (Orkney) to return stuff, we talked (blethered) to Anne  about our efforts to see the 'Merry Dancers' (Northern Lights).

We explained that Lisa had set on alarm for 01.00am so the Alastair could get up and check if any were apparent; they never were,  Anne suggested she'd shine green lazers around Peatwell because she felt sorry for us. We never did see any; already it is too light, nearly all the way through the night, to see them.

Alastair dropped off the bus and into Tourist Information.  That morning, the headlines on Orkney Radio were about a leaflet for tourists describing a fictitious island: Mama Westray.    It described: fish eating pigs, Cate Blanchett as a regular visitor, the world famous 'tomb of a haddock', the Hall of Mcflummery etc

The Poppies, Kirkwall

Ten minutes passed whilst the counter person spoke on the phone: "I couldn't possibly comment.  The islanders may be upset that tourists are misinformed.    Personally I think it must be a prank.    No we did not print it.    l couldn't possibly say.     As an employee I am not permitted.."  Well you get the idea. To be fair he kept his. cool.

Another TI person arrived behind the counter.
Alastair: "Have you got a leaflet about Mama Westray, please?".
"No".
"Will you be getting some?"
"No".
"Do you know where I can get one?"
"No".
l guessed they were getting a wee bit fed up and so left.

Lisa met Alastair at the airport as he flew safely back into Papay and we cycled home to examine our goodies, more gin, whisky and olive bread.

Sat in the sun room that evening after tea we had our first serious discussion about the prospect of moving to live on Papay.    Lisa said she couldn't remember feeling so happy and contented and slept through till 8am the next day.

22/04/2016 to 28/04/2016 Week Two, Peatwell, Papay

Friday 22 04

Walked around the south west corner of Papay, past Bobby's farm and onto a very uninhabited part of the coastline.  We walk past salmon and crab farms and quite a lot of their 'broch' finds its way onto the rocks and beaches.

As we wander we disturb successive groups of Dunter, who take it in turns to flee, splashing their way out to sea in panic; at least 300 by the time we pass the wreck at Vest Ness.

Fleeing Dunter (Eider Duck)

We stop for soup on a beach which wouldn't look out of place in Tobago, with its perfect crescent of white sand and turquoise water, only to be disturbed by a couple who said: "We won't disturb your solitude".    Then promptly sat about ten yards away, so we could hear everything they said.

We left for home. We imagined that the couple were waiting for the Friday ferry.  Alastair went to put his gloves on because the wind was still cold.  One had gone!  Well at least no one will have taken it, so he walked four stiles back towards Vest Ness and found it!

Old Pier (sheltering from a gale)

Lisa had the pleasure of waving to half the population, as they drove to meet the ferry. It is the custom on Papay to wave to everyone you pass on the road, which is normally no hardship because you normally only pass two or three folk in my one day.

Andrew is arriving for a wee (peedie) visit on Tuesday, weather permitting. So we've written a comprehensive list of essential food we will need, including fresh vegetables, because it quickly sells out and the next fresh veg day is Wednesday 23

We are SO good at planning. Arriving at the shop Lisa finds that gloves are not the only thing that Alastair has a talent for losing!

Back at Peatwell we check our purchases against the list that has mysteriously appeared on the table and discover we remembered everything!  How come it is so easy to forget a piece of paper and so easy to remember everything on it?

Celebrated with a gin and tonic!

Saturday 24

Howling gale (literally) and wintry showers (hail piles up against our north facing widows) keep us inside today.

Old Pier

Alastair finds a local recipe for 'Papie Oaties', delicious, and Lisa gives our smoking multi-fuel stove a good talking to!

Later Alastair dons weather armour and heads up the hill to phone Ax and Angus.  Returns nearly in tears with the cold.

We chose not to struggle against the weather to Saturday's bar night and watched BBC's excellent 400 Shakespeare Anniversary night instead.

Up here you learn that weather knows no democracy and to bow to its dictatorship.

Sunday 25

Both awoke ridiculously early. Lisa had a nightmare, where Walsall council had created a special job, especially for her!

Community Boat at the Old Pier

Determined to get out we walked, too windy for bikes, up to the Knap of Howar and back along the coast collecting flotsam and jetsam for the smoky stove.

We watched purple sandpipers scuttling through the seaweed.  As we arrived home rain beat upon our North windows with a vengeance.

Later we fought our way up the hill to confirm Andrew's arrival time. His Monday ferry from Scrabster to Stromness has been cancelled. 

Monday 26

Severe Gales again!

But we needed some beer and wine in case Andrew arrived! So we walked Penelope the Pashly up to the shop (where she was blown over) and then next door to the Youth Hostel to use the WiFi) completely unsuccessfully!

Cycling home with a Force 8 tailwind took about 30 seconds. It is the only way to travel!

Later we watched huge spouts of white spray flying up and over Westray. So dramatic.

Tuesday 27

Alastair went up the hill before breakfast to pick up several messages from Andrew suggesting he couldn't get here until tomorrow. Determined not to let the gales keep us inside for a second day we headed to the Old Pier and hunched up against the wind we pretended to be having a gentle beach walk and enjoying ourselves.

Andrew is Landed

A text arrived from Andrew to say he was on Orkney mainland and still hopeful to catch today's ferry if it sailed.

Three hours later we watched Andrew's ferry pitch and roll into the safe harbour of Papay.

Keen to show him the delights of our island we visited the Knapp of Howar, the remains of the oldest house discovered in Europe. and a short eared owl welcomed Andrew to the island.  Tea was delicious, testament to military planning. 

Andrew joined us in our evening entertainment of sitting  in the sunroom watching the weather arrive and being delighted by the birdlife.

He outlined the complicated and serendipitous events that had enabled him to get here which involved the booking and cancellation of several hotels and flights, a very helpful landlady and the kindness of some fellow travellers, without whom he would not have arrived today.

At bedtime Andrew was given strict instructions to listen for the Corncrake and keep an eye out for the Merry Dancers.  We later found out this was the only night that glowed green with the aurora.  We all slept through it.

Wednesday

North Hill

We had a smattering of snow but thanks to the gulf stream it never lasts long here.   The 3 of us headed to North Hill spotting a flock of Golden Plovers as we walked along the spine road.

Andrew was particularly keen to see the island's Skua's and the Bonxies soon obliged.  It took the developing skills of Lisa 'Bill' Bonham to spot a pair of Arctic Skuas.

Andrew kindly treated us to an alcohol shop and we headed home for another lovely evening.

Andrew perched at the very north of Papa Westray

Thursday

Tiny St Boniface

Inside St Boniface Kirk

The wind has dropped and the sun has come out. Andrew headed off slightly earlier to see St. Boniface Kirk while we packed rucsacs and headed to the Old Pier for a phone signal.    Lisa's redundancy money has been paid in giving us the amazing opportunity to continue our travels for a few months.

A box pew at St Boniface (literally a box for a whole family!)

 Once Andrew joined us we walked along the coast to the New Pier looking for caves and listening to the waves booming in the hollows beneath us.

 

Too much sun on Papay!

At Mocklett Bay beach, protected, from the wind we basked in the sunshine and watched Mergansers snorkel across the bay.

We continued our walk along the South west coast and Lisa started to collect Broch.  We are sure there is a link between the fishing industry and the unsightly Broch that gathers here more than anywhere else.

Andrew and Alastair joined in and we all arrived back at Peatwell laden down with discarded oil containers, rope and plastic bottles.   Alastair wanted to keep some buoys and rope to provide decoration and colour to Peatwell, the owner will be thrilled!

Fire on the Beach

The Ritzema's had given us a gift of wine with instructions to drink it by the sea and we had collected it on our return to Hamish.    As this was the first beautiful evening we had had Alastair suggested a fire on the beach. You can't risk expecting a second chance!

A and A collected flotsam and jetsam to add  Lisa's small stash and Torchy got a fire going with the kindling we had bought from Kirkwall.    We shared the wine and a glass of Octomore, a fitting celebration for Andrew's last evening on Papay, only enhanced with a gift from Mr. Bouja Bouja courtesy of Jacky.

16/04/2016 to 21/04/2016 : Week One, Peatwell, Papa Westray, Orkney.

Saturday 15 04 2016, Peatwell Week One;  Pappa Westray, Orkney.

Started early for Lisa when she awoke at 4 am, far too excited, and had to spend some time in the sun room just gazing.

The Sunroom, Peatwell, Papa Westray

Spent the morning just midgin.  Really we were just too shattered to think straight.  All the tensions, stresses and anxieties of the last few months had permission to catch up on us now we'd arrived in our safe haven.

Alastair bled the radiator.  It is right cold with very high winds and a house that has not been lived in for a while.    Fleeces to be worn at all times with warm tops over the top at times.

Peatwell

We listed the gaps in yesterday's shop and came to the sad realisation that we would need to venture back to the shop today and get back to Hamish for more stuff sometime soon.

After oatcakes and cheese for lunch we donned ski trousers (waterproof and insulated are daily wear here), fleeces, primaloft jackets and waterproofs to walk up to shop again.

Gale force winds prevented the use of our bikes, so we walked.

Alastair booked our flight back to the Mainland for Tuesday standing outside a wee bit down the hill from the shop, the only place he could get a phone signal.   The booking lady had difficulty hearing over the rush and roar of the wind. 

Hail from the North

Home for a wee kip, feeling battered by the wind and rain.

Saturday is pub night on Papay.  This is held in the Youth Hostel dining room from 9.00, just on Saturdays.

We had thought it was from 8, so arrived around 8.15 to find there seemed to be a talk going on, which we felt too embarrassed to walk in on. So we divested ourselves of our weather armour and tried to use the Hostel Internet.    At 9 the door opened and we were allowed to poke our head into a room full of Isanders, cringe worthy!

Anyway we toughed it out, purchasing two bottles of beer from the man staffing the cupboard which is the bar.  We then had the same conversation with about four or five people, very politely, regarding where we were staying and why we were here and how we loved it and how we were here last July and........ then we bailed out.

Got home to wine, Octomore 6.1 and bed.

Sunday 16 04

Walked one quarter of Papay, the south East corner, from the Old Pier to the New Pier in the morning.  The walk starts along the white  sands and turquoise waters of South Wick and ends along the dramatic cliffs towards Mocklett Head. We just bumbled, so the five mile walk took us about 3 hours.

We lazed for the afternoon. Lisa made soup. She had included our hand blender in our essentials list, especially.

Monday 17 04

Severe Gales greet us. The sound of this wind is wonderous: very loud, moaning and whistling in the most severe gusts.  Not to be denied our walk we don our weather armour and set out on the 400 yard walk down to our nearest shore.

Once there we have to lie down behind the break at the top of the beach to avoid being blown off our feet. The rain is painful when it hits our faces.

We abandon our plan to collect 'flotsam and jetsam'.  Once home we feel exhausted from the battering.  Weather is a physical presence here.

Indoor afternoon.    Alastair did baking flapjack; a minor miracle given the lack of scales or recipe. They turned out fine.    Lisa  (Torchy) did ' fire starting'.   We have a beautiful green cast iron stove.  A minor disaster with just damp coal and without kindling.  Lisa would have killed for a hand axe to chop a bit of the wood lying around.  Though given her frustration probably just as well we did not have one!

The Gale continued to rattle our house throughout the evening and overnight. We are worried about flying off the island tomorrow, though the plane does seem to fly in any weather, regardless of severity.

We ration our alcohol consumption by decanting from a wine box into a glass jug, about 70cl.  We do this  because we are trying to stick to our £200 per week budget.    Lisa becomes twitchy at the thought.  Alastair gives her permission to have extras if she wants.  Well we are recuperating!

Tuesday 18 04

The Gale abates and we are able to catch our flight into Kirkwall.    Already we are slightly reluctant to leave Papay.   Her magic is beginning to insinuate into our souls: the big sky, the view to the horizon, the ever changing light and weather is constantly intriguing, the visceral presence as soon as you step outside and the constant sound of wind or water when inside.  We know Kirkwall will surround us with comforts in so many ways, which feels so much less!

Take off in the eight seater, twin prop, Islander is full of fuss and fury. The noise from the engines is so loud it is impossible to speak to your neighbour.  As you look out, over the pilot's shoulder the landscape below is in sharp detail: cows, sheep, barbed wire, wavelets, rocky outcrops.   The colours vivid: green, blue, silver, white.    We land in Kirkwall fifteen minutes later.    This island taxi costs just £14.50 for a return flight, just brilliant value.  Our bags are collected by the same person who later takes our booking for a flight in two weeks time.

The airport bus (£3.70 for both) dropped us in Kirkwall within 15 minutes and we divided our labour: Lisa to Hamish to pack extra stuff (including scope and tripod); Alastair to buy  the essentials of an 02 SIM card and cheese. A quick trip to Tesco for fresh veg then to the Ferry.

We were accompanied by a hearse and mourners returning to Westray; a poignant reminder that islanders are reliant on Mainland for services including births, deaths and care for the aged.

From the new pier we were given a lift home by Beth in her ultra modern electric Nissan Leaf. Our bags arrived later with Alan in his very traditional Land Rover.  Papay folk are endlessly kind and supportive and I guess that, without infrastructure that most of us take for granted, existance becomes more personal.

Wednesday 19 04

RSPB Bird Hide, North Hill

Fortified by porridge we cycled off, in a big wind, for the RSPB reserve which is about 25% of Papay, covering the North end of the island.

In the bird hide we sheltered and read the entry we'd made to the observation book on July 13th 2015.  We watched the Orca of the bird world, Great Skua, cruise by.

North East Coast, Papay

The North Hill of Papay is a breeding site for a large percentage of the world's Great (and Arctic) Skuas and are rarer than Polar Bears!  They are klepto-parasites and survive by stealing other bird's food (not such a brilliant idea then).  Alastair has been attacked by them three times previously, much to Lisa's amusement, as he dives to the ground, rucksack clutched to his head.

We set of to walk clockwise around the coast, leaving the interior to breeding Skuas.  We are constantly accompanied on our walk by Fulmars silently flying past as close as they dare. As we reached the most Northerly point of Papay we see our first ever snow buntings pretty little birds.

Last Great Auk Memorial, Fowl Craig

At Fowl Flag we munch on homemade flapjack as the Atlantic Waves smash over the rocks.    Further round the coast as we approach Fowl Craig we are hassled by a pair of Ravens who we later learn have chicks in their nest.

A black cloud was approaching so we snuggled under the kissu for lunch, the closest we get to camping these days, just our boots showing from under the red nylon cover.

As the rain abates we emerge dry to watch the guillemots, tyskies and razorbills.  No sign of puffins yet.

Guillemots, Fowl Craig

We came off North Hill onto the beach and walked past the remains of abandoned croft to recover our bikes. A visit to the shop on the way home, as we are working our way through the shelf of boxed wines, and we hear the sad news of Victoria Wood's death.

The rest of the afternoon is spent in domestic bliss: Lisa making soup to reinforce our freezer stocks and Alastair setting up a spreadsheet so we can monitor our outgoings.  Alastair spends some time 'up the hill' to call Ax and on his return Lisa realises she has bought white wine by mistake, hardly the weather for white especially out of a box!!

Thursday 20 04

We started the day without having a plan.   We must be starting to relax into our new lifestyle.

View East towards Holm of Papay

 With our daily flask of homemade soup we decided  to cycle to South Wick Bay.  Hoping to access wifi later we had laptops and tablets with us and left them all in the basket of our bikes, propped up against a stone dyke, whilst we walked for the day.

Nestled in layers of grass

We are not aware of any crime on this island and you can leave anything anywhere knowing it will be there on your return.  Our front door keys have remained untouched since we arrived; an incredibly liberating feeling for us following Bill the Burglar's two visits last year and our subsequent need to turn the house into Fort Knox. 

Amongst the chapel remains

Nestled between the seashore and the Loch of St. Tredegar are the fairly sturdy remains of a croft which is gifted with one of the most perfect views ever, a bay of turqouise sea in front and the Loch behind. ln our daydreams we decide that when we win a million we will lovingly renovate this abandoned croft for our forever home.

The high winds bring us back to reality and we head across to the remains of the chapel of Treadgear. On the gentle slope of the chapel remains we sink into layers of grass that make a very comfortable resting place sheltered from the winds. The birds were also sheltering and there was very little to see so we braved the winds again and headed to the shelter of the bay in front of our dream home.  We spotted ring plover, red shanks and purple sandlings bustling among the rocks. 

Penelope the Pashley (oh and Alastair)

Common Seals (commando) at South Wick, Papa Westray

Retrieving our bikes we headed for more shelter crouching down beneath the walls of the Old Pier where are could hear the endlessly entertaining call of the Dunter (Eider).  A female had caught a crab and proceeded to make a meal of it nibbling off the legs first then flipping it over to give her access through its shell, we sure know how to enjoy ourselves these days.

 Risking putting our head above the pier wall we could see the seals lying on the seaweed at North Wick Bay.    We cycled until we were adjacent to them then crawled comando style  to get as close as we could.  People talk of seals singing and it does sound like it but is really the sound of seals warning each other to keep away from their particular basking spot.  At the youth hostel Alastair tried and failed again to get on line, this is becoming our only source of frustration.  Internet access is just terrible here.

After tea we joined the community back at the Old Pier for a good old pagan festival favourite, a bonfire, to celebrate Liz's 90th birthday. As always the islanders were welcoming and inclusive and shared their whisky with us.  A blast of God save the Queen by the Sex Pistols was an appropriate end to the-festivities.    Prince's death was announced today, what is happening this year!