Friday 22 04
Walked around the south west corner of Papay, past Bobby's farm and onto a very uninhabited part of the coastline. We walk past salmon and crab farms and quite a lot of their 'broch' finds its way onto the rocks and beaches.
As we wander we disturb successive groups of Dunter, who take it in turns to flee, splashing their way out to sea in panic; at least 300 by the time we pass the wreck at Vest Ness.
We stop for soup on a beach which wouldn't look out of place in Tobago, with its perfect crescent of white sand and turquoise water, only to be disturbed by a couple who said: "We won't disturb your solitude". Then promptly sat about ten yards away, so we could hear everything they said.
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| Fleeing Dunter (Eider Duck) |
We stop for soup on a beach which wouldn't look out of place in Tobago, with its perfect crescent of white sand and turquoise water, only to be disturbed by a couple who said: "We won't disturb your solitude". Then promptly sat about ten yards away, so we could hear everything they said.
We left for home. We imagined that the couple were waiting for the Friday ferry. Alastair went to put his gloves on because the wind was still cold. One had gone! Well at least no one will have taken it, so he walked four stiles back towards Vest Ness and found it!
Lisa had the pleasure of waving to half the population, as they drove to meet the ferry. It is the custom on Papay to wave to everyone you pass on the road, which is normally no hardship because you normally only pass two or three folk in my one day.
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| Old Pier (sheltering from a gale) |
Andrew is arriving for a wee (peedie) visit on Tuesday, weather permitting. So we've written a comprehensive list of essential food we will need, including fresh vegetables, because it quickly sells out and the next fresh veg day is Wednesday 23
We are SO good at planning. Arriving at the shop Lisa finds that gloves are not the only thing that Alastair has a talent for losing!
We are SO good at planning. Arriving at the shop Lisa finds that gloves are not the only thing that Alastair has a talent for losing!
Back at Peatwell we check our purchases against the list that has mysteriously appeared on the table and discover we remembered everything! How come it is so easy to forget a piece of paper and so easy to remember everything on it?
Celebrated with a gin and tonic!
Saturday 24
Howling gale (literally) and wintry showers (hail piles up against our north facing widows) keep us inside today.
Alastair finds a local recipe for 'Papie Oaties', delicious, and Lisa gives our smoking multi-fuel stove a good talking to!
Later Alastair dons weather armour and heads up the hill to phone Ax and Angus. Returns nearly in tears with the cold.
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| Old Pier |
Later Alastair dons weather armour and heads up the hill to phone Ax and Angus. Returns nearly in tears with the cold.
We chose not to struggle against the weather to Saturday's bar night and watched BBC's excellent 400 Shakespeare Anniversary night instead.
Up here you learn that weather knows no democracy and to bow to its dictatorship.
Sunday 25
Both awoke ridiculously early. Lisa had a nightmare, where Walsall council had created a special job, especially for her!
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| Community Boat at the Old Pier |
Determined to get out we walked, too windy for bikes, up to the Knap of Howar and back along the coast collecting flotsam and jetsam for the smoky stove.
We watched purple sandpipers scuttling through the seaweed. As we arrived home rain beat upon our North windows with a vengeance.
We watched purple sandpipers scuttling through the seaweed. As we arrived home rain beat upon our North windows with a vengeance.
Later we fought our way up the hill to confirm Andrew's arrival time. His Monday ferry from Scrabster to Stromness has been cancelled.
Monday 26
Severe Gales again!
But we needed some beer and wine in case Andrew arrived! So we walked Penelope the Pashly up to the shop (where she was blown over) and then next door to the Youth Hostel to use the WiFi) completely unsuccessfully!
Cycling home with a Force 8 tailwind took about 30 seconds. It is the only way to travel!
Cycling home with a Force 8 tailwind took about 30 seconds. It is the only way to travel!
Later we watched huge spouts of white spray flying up and over Westray. So dramatic.
Tuesday 27
Alastair went up the hill before breakfast to pick up several messages from Andrew suggesting he couldn't get here until tomorrow. Determined not to let the gales keep us inside for a second day we headed to the Old Pier and hunched up against the wind we pretended to be having a gentle beach walk and enjoying ourselves. |
| Andrew is Landed |
A text arrived from Andrew to say he was on Orkney mainland and still hopeful to catch today's ferry if it sailed.
Three hours later we watched Andrew's ferry pitch and roll into the safe harbour of Papay.
Three hours later we watched Andrew's ferry pitch and roll into the safe harbour of Papay.
Keen to show him the delights of our island we visited the Knapp of Howar, the remains of the oldest house discovered in Europe. and a short eared owl welcomed Andrew to the island. Tea was delicious, testament to military planning.
Andrew joined us in our evening entertainment of sitting in the sunroom watching the weather arrive and being delighted by the birdlife.
He outlined the complicated and serendipitous events that had enabled him to get here which involved the booking and cancellation of several hotels and flights, a very helpful landlady and the kindness of some fellow travellers, without whom he would not have arrived today.
He outlined the complicated and serendipitous events that had enabled him to get here which involved the booking and cancellation of several hotels and flights, a very helpful landlady and the kindness of some fellow travellers, without whom he would not have arrived today.
At bedtime Andrew was given strict instructions to listen for the Corncrake and keep an eye out for the Merry Dancers. We later found out this was the only night that glowed green with the aurora. We all slept through it.
Wednesday
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| North Hill |
Andrew was particularly keen to see the island's Skua's and the Bonxies soon obliged. It took the developing skills of Lisa 'Bill' Bonham to spot a pair of Arctic Skuas.
Andrew kindly treated us to an alcohol shop and we headed home for another lovely evening.
Andrew kindly treated us to an alcohol shop and we headed home for another lovely evening.
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| Andrew perched at the very north of Papa Westray |
Thursday
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| Tiny St Boniface |
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| Inside St Boniface Kirk |
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| A box pew at St Boniface (literally a box for a whole family!) |
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| Too much sun on Papay! |
At Mocklett Bay beach, protected, from the wind we basked in the sunshine and watched Mergansers snorkel across the bay.
We continued our walk along the South west coast and Lisa started to collect Broch. We are sure there is a link between the fishing industry and the unsightly Broch that gathers here more than anywhere else.Andrew and Alastair joined in and we all arrived back at Peatwell laden down with discarded oil containers, rope and plastic bottles. Alastair wanted to keep some buoys and rope to provide decoration and colour to Peatwell, the owner will be thrilled!
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| Fire on the Beach |
The Ritzema's had given us a gift of wine with instructions to drink it by the sea and we had collected it on our return to Hamish. As this was the first beautiful evening we had had Alastair suggested a fire on the beach. You can't risk expecting a second chance! 
A and A collected flotsam and jetsam to add Lisa's small stash and Torchy got a fire going with the kindling we had bought from Kirkwall. We shared the wine and a glass of Octomore, a fitting celebration for Andrew's last evening on Papay, only enhanced with a gift from Mr. Bouja Bouja courtesy of Jacky.